The Walther P38 was the gun that replaced the Luger P08, which was too expensive to mass produce and a bit "tempermental" when it came to functioning, as the issued sidearm for the German Army around the beginning of WW2. The more legwork and patience you put in, the more money you'll save, but worst case scenario is about $300 greater effort could cut that almost in half. I don't think I'll even shoot mine, just add it to my collection of antique guns. It'll require a little bit of mechanical aptitude, and I'd highly recommend having it gone over by a competent gunsmith before you shoot it, just to be on the safe side (a safety inspection shouldn't cost too much, just to check function and headspace). This won't be a valuable collector's piece, just a fun, high quality shooter with some interesting history for someone that would enjoy this project.
Call your local police department or attorney general's office for guidance, they should guide you through whatever process your local jurisdiction requires, and allow you to do this legally. This gun should be legal in most of the US, but each state (and/or city) has different requirements for going about getting the proper legal permission, permits, and registration. Finally, be sure to check your local firearms laws BEFORE attempting this build. If you find a local shop with a range and gunsmith, you can probably work out a deal if you buy some ammo, accessories, or range time they'd probably do it for free.Ĥ. A simple function and headspace check is cheap peace of mind. Also, unless you're a qualified gunsmith, it's worth a few dollars to have this gun looked over by someone who is before you fire it. Any idiot can overload a gun and destroy it or himself, don't be that guy.ģ. Generic 9mm rounds will be fine, and older military surplus rounds are perfect, just don't shoot +P or +P+ loads in these guns. Regardless of which gun you may choose to build (P1 or P38), bear in mind that while these are extremely high quality gun, built by a top tier manufacturer with over 100 years of firearms experience, they ARE a 70 year old design, made with manufacturing techniques and materials developed before WW2.don't try shooting super hot rounds out of these if you want them to last.worst case scenario is a catastrophic failure causing injury or death, but a more likely scenario is accelerated wear and an eventualy stress fractures in the frame of the gun. This is for information purposes only, do NOT try this at home.Ģ. With that in mind I'd be an idiot not to say:ġ.
I'm not trying to scare you off, just to cover my butt in our litigious society.
DISCLAIMERS, so you (hopefully) don't sue me if something bad happens.and believe me, I'm not worth suing.I wouldn't be building a $200 gun out of parts if I could afford to put a new one on my Amex Platinum card.
#WALTHER P1 P38 INSTALL#
In other words, install the recoil springs and plungers as described in the text and photo in Step 6, and ignore the recoil springs and plungers shown in subsequent photos. The writeup includes photos and text describing the correct procedure, but the photos throughout the build show the springs installed incorrectly, a mistake I didn't realize until the final assembly. Also note that the throughout the build my recoil springs were put in backward. This is my first writeup on, it was suggested to me in the above thread, so apologies in advance for my technical and formatting errors. The original thread, with some information and comments, is found here: I built my first one for just about $200 exactly, the one featured in this writeup. Author's note, this project was born out of a thread on the forums about putting together a P38 pistol, assembled from parts found at various sources, extremely cheaply.$300 or as little as $150 with a little patience and legwork.
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